Constructing Crazy Quilt Blocks

Recently Allie of Allie's in Stitches wrote a crazy quilt tutorial on constructing blocks. After reading her entry, I commented that I sewed my blocks a little differently. Being the ever diplomatic one, she suggested I write a tutorial also. Her plan is to share the various methods with newbie crazy quilters at a lecture.

Being the "Kill 4 Birds with One Stone" kind of gal, I already had an idea about what I could use for my blocks. I am woefully (like 3 months) behind on my Victorian women book, I need some handwork for the Vermont Festival, I wanted to incorporate some new machine embroidery motifs and I wanted to encourage newbies too. So, today I put together 3 blocks. These pages will represent May, June and July in my Victorian Women book.

Most of my crazyquilting work centers around a Theme. I find developing a theme an easy way to work, I enjoy collecting elements that can support the theme, & I like to see how a vague idea develops. For the Victorian women book, I chose a different image each month that I thought looked like a particular month. I also challenged myself to develop a color scheme that I might not ordinarily use and to explore embroidery stitches and techniques that were fairly new to my growing repetoire.

For a new crazyquilt stitcher, I do recommend the Theme idea. I think it gives an automatic starting point & framework for organizing the block (or quilt). The book idea is another almost foolproof way to create a variety of blocks within a technique and theme. As the designer, you have the opportunity to "call it quits" when you feel like you have explored the theme sufficiently. With a quilt, you are controlled more by the piece (and expected finish).

When I think about constructing a crazyquilt block, I think in layers.
1. The basic block with fabrics. The fabrics are chosen to support the block's theme. The fabric choices can be anywhere from obvious themed fabrics to subtle supporting fabrics. Within the fabric choices, I include any embroidered motifs I plan to use to develop the theme.

2. The trims. Some pieces require trims and some pieces are fine without trims. Sometimes bands of embroidery or lengths of fabric can visually stand in for trims. I typically do not add trims when I am piecing the block. I like to do that step during the embroidery or embellishing stages.

3. Embroidery stitches

4. Embellishments

For this entry, I will focus on constructing the crazyquilt block. If you would like to see how the previous blocks in this book/series are finished, you can see them by clicking on the label 12 x 12 x 12 Monthly Challenge in the sidebar. All the posts about the Victorian Women book will pop up.

I do not precut any of the patches I use. I find that pulling scraps and working as closely as I can with the various shapes is kind of a mind game I play with myself. Having never worked in the corporate world, I like to think this is my way of making decisions given the facts as they are presented; much like an executive might work. Or, on one of "those days", I just like to sew.

I cut my backing square about an inch larger than the finished block; if it is a large block. If it is a small block, I might add a few extra inches; mainly so it will fit in the embroidery hoop. I am not very strict about any measurements here except to make sure it really is larger.

I use all manner of lightweight cottons for the block backings--anything from drapery lining to miscellaneous outdated prints. If you are using prints, be mindful they do not show through to your front fabrics.

I draw the finished block outline on the back of the backing with a pencil. This gives me a guide when adding fabrics to the front. I don't want to come up short. It also helps me see if a scrap has the right shape for a space.

I generally start in the middle of the block and work around in a circular manner; much like making a log cabin block. Since I am using these Victorian women's images, they are centered (more or less) as though you are reading a book. There isn't much deviation. On a larger format where blocks might be touching each other, you have a larger visual canvas & can play with your center shape more; but, for this idea/theme, I stay close to the center.



I sew patches right sides together, trim underneath fabrics that could add bulk or show through to the front, press and move to the next section.

For areas that begin to look too large, too straight, or too dominant, I may trim off a corner to give another color, shape or fabric some room to show.

I generally leave some margin around my pieces that can be trimmed off in the next step.

The tail under the flap will be trimmed even with the seam allowance. Then, the flap will be pressed down.


Here I am using a pencil to visually line up the fabrics so I can tell where the next pieces will go.

The extra fabrics cut off the main block.

Again, using a pencil (or any straight item) to see how the rose fabric will look in various amounts. I am trying to decide how much of the rose to use & where to place it on the block.



Here I am considering how it might look with the corner cut off.

I decided to cut off the corner so I could add the cross stitched rose motif that I wanted to especially use on this block. Again, I am checking the position before I sew and/or cut. With something like this, I am very cautious first so I don't make a placement mistake that costs me the use of my motif.
Once I have moved the motif down and decided on the placement, I press a crease.
The crease became my sewing line for the rose motif. Now, I can sew, trim out the extra fabric, flip, press and continue around the block.


My general rule of thumb for number of pieces of fabric to add to a block depends upon the block size. I use about 2-3 more pieces than the block's size. So, a 12" block might use 15 shapes. On a 12" block I would not repeat any fabrics. I do repeat colors and I like to vary the shades to give the illusion of matching without overdoing the matchy-matchy look. The same applies to prints and tone on tone fabrics. I like to play various prints and subtle textures off each other. Here I have laid out possible fabric choices to see how the various prints and colors work with each other. This is the pile I will work from when I start sewing the block.

When all the fabrics are sewn, I baste around the outside edge of the block ¼" from the penciled line. This represents a vague cutting line for later squaring up the block. I cut the top fabrics another ¼" past that basted line. Now the block is ready for embroidery and/or embellishing. May's Block --worked off the Rose this Flapper is holding and the idea of a fragrant summer rose garden


June's Block--worked off the colors of the sea (imagined that as a possible vacation spot in June)I also thought of this Flapper as a bit more whimsical than some of the others and wanted to show that with the fabrics

July's Block--worked on a patriotic theme & played off the soft blue of this Flapper's dress